Friday, October 30, 2009

Tuesday, October 27, 2009


09/25/09 -- Montserrat...
Breathtaking. Less than an hour outside the city. Free. No people. No garbage, very little graffiti. Our route was named Fragel Rock. The approach was 45 degree uphill slog (1 hr+?) requiring fixed ropes in some places. 7 pitches of bolted sport. But the route wanders quite drastically, so we used twin ropes.
Last two pitches are 5.10d then 5.11b. Imagine a full body massage given by a grizzly bear in a bad mood. That's what I felt like afterwards.
That was before the descent. The descent is an maybe an hour of steepness that also required fixed ropes, and left my legs feeling like rodney king.
At the top there was helipad.
I could have used a chopper at that moment to fly me back to the car.

Friday, October 23, 2009


Sorry for the uber-belated post. Work+climb=no time.

09-24-09 arrived in BCN today. Went with Fernando and Otso and Uma to get chorizo bocadillo and cafe. Then to La Fuixarda to climb. It's an interesting locale, and I immediately started to understand why europeans climb stronger than americans.

Looks like a tunnel next to a rugby stadium...

But suddenly, it's a free outdoor climbing gym, replete with huge traverses and overhanging sport climbing!

Outside the tunnel, it's blast rock (still pretty decent) with the 5 meters being cement with drilled pocket holds. Just like Mt. Charleston.

I led/tried to onsight the following:
5.10 - tunnel
5.10 - tunnel
outside tunnel on walls that are half artificial:
5.11ish - one foot slip on humid slab ... otherwise no problem.
5.11d / 12a - almost flashed.
5.11ish - onsight
5.10 - setup tr for some kids that couldn't make it to the anchor.