Matt was kind enough to introduce Masa, Satoshi, and me to this “new” area. New to us at least. It was recently featured in Rock & Ice and bigupproductions’ Tis the Season. Anywho, it’s quality rock, kinda tall, with flat landings. When we arrived we encountered a dozen or so friendly cadets from the West Point rock climbing club. We climbed with them a little while before moving on. Below Linda works a V4. Unusual for this area (gunks) to find a nice overhanging moderate with friendly holds and good movement.
As we meandered along this edge of the Mohonk Preserve, bright green plant life was bursting through the carpet of dried leaves. Masa said that in
Below, Satoshi 6'+, Matt 5'6", and Masa 5'10" warm up on something, maybe a V1 or V2.
Masa on the crux of a pretty neat V4 slab.
Below, Nicholas Cage on the V7. 
V7 (redpoint) … Masa really worked this one. He bled for it. Masa just can’t keep his blood to himself.
The black flies and mosquitos love his blood as well. He’s better than bug spray. Just stand next to him, and all the airborne bloodsuckers flock to him leaving you unscathed. Must be something he eats. Of course the V7 was right above a pool of stagnant water filled with mosquito larvae. Matt sent on his 2nd try. Unfortunately I didn’t get video of the send. I only got his pre-send slip-up followed by his patented rapid fire cussing. V8 failure … This was my favorite problem of the day. Naturally- because I couldn’t do any of the moves. But it appeared to require a decent amount of core tension. There’s a cool undercling move on a sliver of granite that looks transparent and ready to snap off with no warning. Somebody better not break that off before I get on it again.
V5 (redpoint) … Masa uses the calf hook. When the heel just isn’t enough.
At the end of the day Eric’s girlfriend showed up. She’s super strong. They have a gigantic Nemo chalkbag. What’s Nemo up to?
34 point bouldering day and I’m not sore… plus I never send above V5 away from home. Although I’m in NYC/NJ so frequently it doesn’t feel like a road trip. I mean I know every inch of the NY thruway from NJ to New Paltz. It almost feels like home. Did my cocktail of bacon, eggs, pancakes, double espressos, creatine, and sudafed work? I would be tempted instead to downgrade everything by 3 but then MS might piledrive me…
4 comments:
OK I have problem names and grades now. The V4 on the steep boulder is Captain Let Down, to the left is Captain Come Down V6. On the far right side of 3R the crimpy problem is "The Trotts V5. The problem to the right is V8 Spider Sense. Better go get back on the right one if you are going to impress the ladies...
Matt
TR: Hmm. If only climbing hard could impress the ladiez. But then, they wouldn't be worth impressing. I mos def need to get back on Spider Sense, (which is your new nemesis I suppose?) I'll be back in NJ 6/10-6/24...
My New nemisis may be Badger's Milk at L.C. A Crimpy arete problem that felt possible. BTW the edibles are fiddlehead Ferns. I am trying to get Marc and Masa out to LC and back to 3R. Give me a call when you are back.
Matt
How do you get to triple right?
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