Tuesday, September 22, 2009

Lost City again.

I'm ambivalent on the anti-guide stance of the locals. Everybody and their brother knows about the place. I guess I don't really care since I have a local to climb with.

Warmup on the magnum boulder. I got a yellow card for burning a beginner on the slab. Apparently "burning" somebody means walking up to something that people are working on and hiking it. It's poor form and betrays a petty ego stroke. Don't burn people - unless they're your friends, in which case feel free to burn away.

Below Theresa on one of the v1s on the back of the Magnum boulder.

Learned about some new problems, but can't remember all the names.
Hungarian traverse v2
something around the left of the hungarian traverse - v2
boulder next to magnum - v4
boulder next to magnum - v6 - couldn't do it.
Matt's v7/8/9 project which is on an orange arete reminiscent of tigerstyle. couldn't do that. did ok on the beginning.
Cagefighter - v6 - couldn't do opening move, but could do all the other moves to the top out. Matt is able to waltz the start which I couldn't fathom. Fur and gristle outperform springy reach.. usually does.
Then we watched Zach D try Thumb War v10.
I didn't even touch that one... looked very painful. But complaining about the pain and the landings at the gunks is considered poor form by some. It's sharp conglomerate, like sticking your hands inside a pitbull's mouth, and you're landing on sharp talus, and wading through poison ivy, spiders, mosquitoes, fat millipedes, snakes, and possibly ticks. Not to mention other desperate tri-state area boulderers. Aside from that, problems actually have pretty good movement and can be technical, which I enjoy. I was a little shaky today due to lack of food and sleep and an abundance of beer and sake the night before. If you're going climbing, don't do that to yourself. Trust me.

Saturday, September 12, 2009

Fried anorexic chicken.

Before setting out for Flagstaff, we got food for the road at Albertson's. The proper way to eat fried chicken from Albertson's Supermarket:
1. Purchase fried chicken 4 for 3 deal. Get stuff with bones in it like wings, legs, or thighs.

2. Enjoy savory fried chicken while seated in moving vehicle.
3. Chicken bones magically disappear via window to feed mold, ants, and crows.

Above, John warms up on the Triangle boulder.

Anorexic thwarted me yet again, although I made significant progress. This time I was able to check the foot cut at the crux, and even made it to the exciting heel over the head hook at the top. I just need a little more endurance/core, more precise foot work, more focus, and a good night's sleep. In short, I need more everything. I am convinced the insomnia is holding me back a full v-grade. Wait, that's wus-talk. V6 isn't that hard.

Anorexic attempts. from Hotel Sierra on Vimeo.

Right before leaving, we hit some moderate sport at the Pit, which is a pretty stellar little crag. I feel the limestone on the faces is of a higher quality than Charleston, and the approach is a mere 10 minute hike on an easy trail. Not too crowded either. Tried the Joker 5.12d, but couldn't put it together, especially after an entire day of bouldering. Got to the 4th or 5th bolt before throwing in the towel.

Upon arriving back in vegas, a paella dinner prepared by P awaited us. Met somebody with a unique name too: "'Rainy' ... like the weather", he said. Now that I think about it, it's a pretty cool name.

Friday, September 4, 2009

non sequitur

My friend Matt has impeccable taste in human sized rabbits. Wait, that came out wrong. My Adirondacks bouldering trip was rained out by Hurricane Danny, in a rather normal stroke for northeast summer weather (i.e. rain every weekend and sunny w/o warning during the work week when I'm trapped in deafening air conditioning and wage labor.) Going to Flagstaff tomorrow... I hope to shed the albatross of rain and send Anorexic.