Sunday, December 2, 2012

Bloodline.

1October 2012... Bloodline 12b (7b) … only did the first pitch at 12b. I normally can't climb this hard, but the route suited me in several ways: tricky slab crux to no hands rest, then to relatively easier pockets. If you were to reverse that sequence, I'd have to work twice as hard. Cruxes at the top are more beautiful, but man they kick my ass. Since I have no endurance, if I can get the crux out of the way and then run for the chains, I can usually get it. The key at the top was not futzing around on little toes and instead using hand foot matches to boost yourself to the next good pocket. That seems to be the going wisdom at The Hood… hand foot match on the jug/pocket your hand is in and stand… the bigger the move the better so you eliminate heinous tiny intermediates. Rope running behind your leg is a bad habit that automatically marks you as a gumby, so don't do it!
Demonstration of an active belay. Of course, if I fall at this point, I deserve a little air.
Hanging out in Soul Cave.
Thanks to P for the belay and A for the photos!

Monday, June 25, 2012

A nymph and a prophet.

There was nothing worth posting since I injured my hand and then my ankle over the last year.  I stopped climbing.  This left me with no counterweight to the monotonous dirge of soul crushing spreadsheets and endless emails.  I was forced to rely on alcohol and guitar to keep my sanity.  I discovered that a defiled spirit spawns morphological offspring: I became fat and weak like my fellow denizens of the fluorescent office kingdom.   It was time to return to the only thing that's fun and keeps you looking good in the mirror...

Triassic Sands.  Paul McCartney look alike peeks over the ledge.
Bouldering in the forest with T and Y.  The lighting through the canopy reminded me of the greek nymphs that inhabit forests.

 Here's a strong fella onsighting Straight Shot (11d) in First Creek.  A nice photo by D rapping on Gin Ricky or Rob Roy at the moment his chalkbag flew off his harness at the crux.  I think the ascensionist is named after the founder of a north american religion.