Thursday, December 30, 2010

Atari et al.

Bishop Bouldering X-mas 2010 from Hoary Marmot on Vimeo.

Back to Bishop.

Nothing ground breaking occurred besides some surprisingly good sushi at Yamatani.  But all my dabbling in sport climbing has increased my stamina so i can do more boulder problems in a day.  Definitely peaked on Day 2 and shouldn't have climbed Day 3.  Skin is now gone.  Best send of this trip was probably Atari v6.  It's a little bit of a headjob because it looks like you'll go careening off the cliff if you blow the crux.  In fact, it looks to be relatively safe because all three of us that tried it tended to fall straight down to the pads.  I also really liked Rene v5.  It was tall and I did it without spotters because I was alone on Day 1.  But relatively safe with a nice flat landing.

Day 2.  Randy on The Clapper v6.  Nice line with interesting movement.  Guidebook says v6, rockclimbing dot com description says v4+.  My grasp on bouldering grades is now utterly muddled.  I propose a 2 dimensional model: on the x axis is a scale from Fun to Not Fun.  And the y axis is a scale from Easy to Hard.  This allows for four quadrants.  I would always try to climb Fun and Easy or Fun and Hard.

Ryan checking out the one move wonder that is Will's Arete v5.  But what a move!

Randy and Leslie at the Sads.  I am so mad at myself for never having visited before.  I found the problems to be more inspiring than the Happies.  Next time, just going to the Sads.

Tighter is righter, right?

Why no Buttermilks?  Well I tried on Day 1, but almost got my 4runner stuck in 2 feet of snow about a quarter mile from the Peabodys.  

Day 1 - Happies
- Dirty Hooker v1
- Sidepull Problem v5
- Crack Problem v3
- Pinch Problem v4
- Rene v5
- Mr. Happy v5

Day 2 - Happies
- Atari v6
- The Clapper v6
- The Hulk v6
- Will's Arete v5
- Mr. Witty v6
x Every Color you Are v6

Day 3 - Sads
- Molly Dyno v?  v4?
x  Molly v5
x  Strength in Numbers v5
x  Lawnmower Man v7

x = no send