Sunday, December 2, 2012
1October 2012... Bloodline 12b (7b) … only did the first pitch at 12b. I normally can't climb this hard, but the route suited me in several ways: tricky slab crux to no hands rest, then to relatively easier pockets. If you were to reverse that sequence, I'd have to work twice as hard. Cruxes at the top are more beautiful, but man they kick my ass. Since I have no endurance, if I can get the crux out of the way and then run for the chains, I can usually get it. The key at the top was not futzing around on little toes and instead using hand foot matches to boost yourself to the next good pocket. That seems to be the going wisdom at The Hood… hand foot match on the jug/pocket your hand is in and stand… the bigger the move the better so you eliminate heinous tiny intermediates. Rope running behind your leg is a bad habit that automatically marks you as a gumby, so don't do it!