

My first climb was The Rooster, 5.10c or 5.11b with 5 bolt extension. I onsighted the 5.11b, although it sort of took all my available calories. My stemming abilities were not up to the task so I wasted energy in poor stances with my feet cramping up. Afterwards, I took some disappointing falls on a couple of 11s, purposely climbing when I was drained and partially pumped. It's part of my "sub-optimal" climbing regime where I'm trying to teach my body and mind to perform in less than prime conditions, which is often. I used to be one of those that wouldn't try something unless I was feeling strong or alert or just good in general. This even extended to the gym. I wouldn't hop on a problem if I just didn't feel energetic. Now I get on it precisely because I feel like doggy doo. Not sure if this is a good approach, but I think it's working. Of course, the obvious solution would be to get a good night's sleep and get in better shape for the approaches, but that's apparently too darn reasonable.
At the crag I had a Larry David moment: There was a japanese couple probably in their 50s and climbing strong as hell. They were resting in the shade when Pilar and I were leaving. But I forgot my climbing guidebook, which was on the ground beside the couple. It happened to be on top of an empty bag of Whole Foods brand teriyaki-flavored beef jerky we had eaten. Since Pilar was closer to the book, I pointed in the direction of the book (and incidentally the japanese couple) and exclaimed to Pilar, "Oh, I see the book. It's by the TERIYAKI!" The japanese man then covered his face with his hand in either an act of disbelief or disgust or both. I thought "Oh my god, he must think I called them "teriyaki" because they were japanese! Shit! Wait, I'm not some racist asshole! I meant the bag of beef jerky..." Well, there's no recovering from that, so I quickly exited stage left feeling like moron. Since the guy had the route wired, I bet they're locals and I'll probably run into them again. Joy.


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