Sunday, June 1, 2008

Mt. Charleston. The Hood. Compton Cave.

Visited "The Hood" at Mt. Charleston with Pilar, John, and Shawn (hereafter referred to as "Top Gun")

Day's successes:
5.8 - Glen & Pilar.

Day's non-redpoints, hangdogs, and failed attempts:
5.11c face climb. I took a 15 foot fall on that.
5.11c "Across the Universe" at the Corrosion Cave. Top Gun led it, and I followed and cleaned without any falls. Very demanding and pumpy. Botched sequences and poor flow did not help. I forgot that you had to fall into some holds, which is actually quite fun.
5.13d "Wailing Soul" Top Gun did a very impressive onsight attempt, taking the longest 5 minutes to clip the 4th draw. Even Bill Ramsey (I think it was him) had to stop and observe. Although I don't think the business begins until the lip, which Bill Ramsey said required a lot of thrutching. I posted a couple photos of us on Wailing Soul in the previous post. John threw himself with gusto at the first move about 30 times. If I ever get to it, I'll have to make a video compilation of his attempts from the photos.
5.12d "Straight outta Compton" Completely shut down on this one. Last climb of the day. Couldn't make the third clip.
Love is all you need.
Top Gun coolly observes Chris Lindner on his attempted link up of two 5.14bs.

So Chris Lindner showed up with his possie. He was attempting a linkup of two 5.14b's I think, FA Sharma 1997. Amazing to watch him climb. We all just sat at the back of the cave and enjoyed the show. Lindner's conditioning is phenomenal. After 40 or 50 feet of nothing but one-pad holds, he rests for like 10 minutes on a nothing undercling and then moves up to take another "rest" on a mono.

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