Here's SM on Contortionist Corner 5.12c. It's an overhanging dihedral that's a little heady because you could encounter some limestone if you blow a clip. He's screaming because he's attempting to get finger jam or stack into an overhanging pocket.
Contortionist Corner 5.12c from Hotel Sierra on Vimeo.
I like JB's shot because it accurately depicts the steepness. I was able to hangdog through it, but it cost me as my tricep became so exercised at the end, it wouldn't stop twitching until 3am that evening. I wish I knew the biochemistry behind that, as it's probably lack of something like potassium or magnesium or sodium. I foolishly thought my quadruple espresso from Starbux would tide me over. Speaking of JB, he did a marvelous job on an 11b or c on the opposite wall although sadly no footage. And that despite the bright Bufon soccer jersey!We also attempted America's Most Wanted 5.13c. SM hangdogged through to the chains, but I was pretty much shut down from the opening moves. Steep limestone roof technique took a raincheck on me that day. I like this photo by JB, but it would be easier on my ego if I wasn't pusillanimously clutching the chain with my right hand! The severe overhang combined with a tad of dehydration had my abs cramping up in no time.
Below, superboy gazes into the empty space that awaits.
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