Monday, June 28, 2010

Anorexic at last.

Finally sent Anorexic.  Randy provided excellent beta, finding a bicycle move that eliminated the cruxy foot cut swing/campus silliness I had previously committed to.  With the bicycle, I could statically reach left hand to the undercling above the slopey plate.  I think there's video, but it's in Randy's panasonic camcorder trapped in .mts format so it might be awhile before I can post that.  Afterwards, we tried Bread Loaf, and Randy was able to send on the final try of the day.  

P and Othello at The Pit.

Leslie top roping a 5.11 at The Pit.  It was a little hot, and we were running low on water/food.  My hapless camelpak busted a leak (second one to do this) while inside my arcteryx miura.  I'm about to give up on water bladders as they seem to be nothing but trouble.  Got pretty dehydrated in the sun.  This may have thwarted my redpoint attempt on Aerial Vermin because my forearm muscles seized up and I couldn't close my hands.  Ah well, next time.  

Friday, June 18, 2010

Table trick.

Let's table that. from Hotel Sierra on Vimeo.

My friend Matt explained this to me when it was raining in New Paltz. So I gave it go in my New York office on Wednesday. I think there might be a couple of dabs, including a chair kick. I did get the onsight but table characteristics may play a large role. Plus I'm wearing approach shoes. I think full credit might require dress shoes.  At least it wasn't raining, and the air-conditioning had conditions at a cool and dry 73F, no wind.

Wednesday, June 9, 2010

Thug and Flail.

The vegas heat has forced us back up to Mt. Charleston.  Here's Othello the half-breed whippet sniffing around Compton Cave.

Tinkerbell works Infectious Groove 5.13b.  You have to fly like Peter Pan to do this route.
Farther up, another crux...

Unlike bouldering, thugging it out kind of backfires because you aren't done after 5 moves!  The crag is called The Hood though, so thugging is implied.  
Here's me back in Compton Cave working on Straight outta Compton 5.12d.  I'm messing up the moves here, as my left foot should be on the hold by my left hip.  
Tinkerbell on the tricky opening moves of Straight outta Compton.  The right foot shouldn't cut, but it makes for a good action shot.