Friday, November 12, 2010

Resolution Arete. 5.11+ A1.

Day 0.  An exploratory day  to stash gear at the base of the climb.  Ben scopes out Mt. Wilson from the Oak Creek pullout.  The route we're eyeing is Resolution Arete on the left side.  It's 20 pitches long and 2,500 ft. tall.  Maybe the longest route at Red Rock.  No fixed anchors.  Sort of committing, especially if you are not familiar with descent options (like Inti Watana to the right or Sherwood Forest to the left.)  We were not familiar with either, so we were committed.  We spent Saturday scoping out the approach and stashing gear/water for Sunday.  So glad we did because there's a very long, thorny, and steep scramble to the base of the first pitch.

Day 1 (first day of climbing).  Despite finding the approach trail with cairns, we still got lost the next day.  Showed up at 3am for the 2 hour uphill slog.  At sunrise we arrive at our stashed gear from the day before.

Above, sunrise on first pitch of Resolution.

Ben scopes out his next lead.

We are forced to bivy above Sherwood forest after 10 pitches, including the crux 5.11+ pitch.  Neither of us could free it.  Plus I got stuck trying to clean it because of rope shenanigans, wasting at least 45 minutes hanging under the roof.  

A $250 patagonia down sweater.  It helped out a bunch as wind and rain fell upon us periodically throughout the night.  The accursed scrub oak and its roots shot holes into my bivy bag so I got pretty wet.  Suffice to say, I think I slept for about 10 minutes that night.  Discovered that Ben talks in his sleep. 
Day 2. (Second day on the wall)... Sunrise from our bivy notch.  It was beautiful despite ominous clouds and moisture.  Later it would briefly snow and hail on us.  

8 hours later, we can de-rope for the summit scramble, described as "5.2, with some 5.8".  Hm.

Just 400 ft to the top!

2:20pm, we summit.  Ben on the tippy-top.  Highest point in Red Rock.  

The summit register is protected by rocks.

Very windy up there.  We chose the heinous 3 hour boulder-hopping descent down First Creek Canyon.

Wednesday, November 3, 2010

Saturday Night Live.

John Sherman's Stone Crusade book lists this problem in Joshua Tree National Monument (it's not just a park, but a monument!) as "the most kinesthetically pleasing route in the Monument, maybe the country." I might agree.

Ryan on the send:

RD sends SNL. from Hotel Sierra on Vimeo.

Me peeling off:

Saturday Night Live attempt. from Hotel Sierra on Vimeo.

Me sending:

Monday, November 1, 2010


I tried this problem at Kraft on and off for about 3 seasons, and could never decipher the darn thing. Spent 2 seasons trying to lock off an intermediate sloper. I'll blame that harebrained beta on Shawn. When all else fails, dyno. This season, started jumping. Suddenly an easy v4 dyno materialized. Easier than Saturday Night Live at Jtree for sure. I actually hate the ubiquity of "for sure", but it seems to roll off the tongue when spraying about bouldering. Fo sho.

Toadstool. from Hotel Sierra on Vimeo.