Sunday, March 15, 2009

Black Corridor... so crowded.

Shawn successfully toproped Texas Lite Sweet 5.11b. I needed a couple tries to get the crux. It's a steep slab with tiny holds. At the crux Shawn uses a hold that's barely in existence. After spending way too much time discussing whether it's 5.11b or not, in hindsight, I could see it since it's a slab. I mean, 5.11b slab is bound to be frickin hard for techniqueless gym monkey boulderers. The odd part is the way it's bolted... it doesn't seem to correspond to the route. So we're not totally sure how Texas Lite Sweet was originally designed. In any case, neither of us has ever seen chalk on the line that goes straight to the chains. Now there is. That sounds like a boast, but I actually regret leaving traces there. It would be much cooler to do it and leave not one molecule of magnesium carbonate on the sandstone.

2 comments:

Mr. McKenna said...

is that still a 5.12 if i am able to do that above the crux?

Unknown said...

I thought you did that above every crux and I just never noticed b/c I was belaying... and if you didn't you should start. That, along with yelling, "ROBINSON!"