Monday, January 10, 2011

So Sad.

Sunset over the Sierras as we drove away from the Volcanic Tablelands.  

Rio's Crack.:  Wow that was desparate thanks to zero feet.  
Do anything you can to get to the first sinker crack for your left hand.  I used the dangerous huecos on the face as "drive-by" holds.  Won't be repeating that anytime soon.

Professional Widow, sort of a highball.
It's tall, but never got too scary because the holds and moves are relatively positive up high.  You do have to commit to a two-finger pocket lock off to a one pad crimp, but conditions favored my easily frozen hands because although the rock was cold, the sun shined bright.  Also helped that this rarely climbed boulder was not polished by a horde of greasy-pawed climbers.  It's also a very photogenic problem for the Sads, as it offers open air instead of the standard scree or boulders right behind you.  Not as scary as Jedi Mind Tricks or White Rastafarian.

Pow Pow: Wolverine guide says v8, but v7 if you're honest.  So in a rare moment of honesty, I'll have to agree.  If Midnight Lightning is v8, then this is definitely easier.  In fact, it's easier than Lawnmower Man which is rated v7.  So maybe it's a 6/7?  Maybe I just did it wrong.

Hot Pants: Why did I waste time and skin on this pebble?  A key hold is polished to a shine, and I had to employ a flesh molding ring lock on the starting horizontal crack.  Painful, slippery, and short.  Like a line of coke, I guess you do it just because it's there.  That's what people tell me, at least.

Randy on Strength in Numbers v5.  His left hand is on the crux hold.  
Strength in Numbers: Best problem in the mid-grades at the Sads imho.  If you're there, you must climb it.  It's like the Hulk at the Happies.  Just like the Hulk there's always a "psyched" crew with humongous mattress-like crash pads protecting the climb, so even though the guide gives it a heart with wings, it's quite safe.

- Rio's Crack v6
- Pop a Wheelie v4
- Professional Widow v4
- Pow Pow v7
- Strength in Numbers v5
x Lawnmower Man v7
x Hot Pants v5

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