Wednesday, January 12, 2011
A short 3 min video with Strength in Numbers followed by Professional Widow v4 highball, and then Pow Pow, a guidebook v8 but consensus v7, and probably v6. Shout outs to Randy and Leslie for the camera work, spotting, encouragement, and crashpads.
I think at the 3 min mark you can see I almost slip and fall off the top of Pow Pow after sending. Seems to be a bad habit I picked up in the Gunks, where I routinely slid on pine needles and autumn leaves, falling off the top of boulder problems into talus pits filled with scree and mud.
Also, probably not audible, but on Professional Widow, my left hand started sliding off the penultimate hold; i remember hearing my fingernails scraping the volcanic ash while reaching right for the finishing jug. Randy heard it as well and got pretty worried. Fortunately the music obscures these sordid details of my shoddy rockcraft.
Monday, January 10, 2011
Sunset over the Sierras as we drove away from the Volcanic Tablelands.
Rio's Crack.: Wow that was desparate thanks to zero feet.Do anything you can to get to the first sinker crack for your left hand. I used the dangerous huecos on the face as "drive-by" holds. Won't be repeating that anytime soon.
Professional Widow, sort of a highball.It's tall, but never got too scary because the holds and moves are relatively positive up high. You do have to commit to a two-finger pocket lock off to a one pad crimp, but conditions favored my easily frozen hands because although the rock was cold, the sun shined bright. Also helped that this rarely climbed boulder was not polished by a horde of greasy-pawed climbers. It's also a very photogenic problem for the Sads, as it offers open air instead of the standard scree or boulders right behind you. Not as scary as Jedi Mind Tricks or White Rastafarian.
Pow Pow: Wolverine guide says v8, but v7 if you're honest. So in a rare moment of honesty, I'll have to agree. If Midnight Lightning is v8, then this is definitely easier. In fact, it's easier than Lawnmower Man which is rated v7. So maybe it's a 6/7? Maybe I just did it wrong.
Hot Pants: Why did I waste time and skin on this pebble? A key hold is polished to a shine, and I had to employ a flesh molding ring lock on the starting horizontal crack. Painful, slippery, and short. Like a line of coke, I guess you do it just because it's there. That's what people tell me, at least.
Randy on Strength in Numbers v5. His left hand is on the crux hold.Strength in Numbers: Best problem in the mid-grades at the Sads imho. If you're there, you must climb it. It's like the Hulk at the Happies. Just like the Hulk there's always a "psyched" crew with humongous mattress-like crash pads protecting the climb, so even though the guide gives it a heart with wings, it's quite safe.
- Rio's Crack v6
- Pop a Wheelie v4
- Professional Widow v4
- Pow Pow v7
- Strength in Numbers v5
x Lawnmower Man v7
x Hot Pants v5
Monday, January 3, 2011
"Ju" V6/7 at Ibex from Hoary Marmot on Vimeo.
This was a sweet problem in Ibex, Utah. It's rated v6/7. Definitely one of the more beautiful places to boulder. Plus you're guaranteed to be alone, which is nice if that's what you're into. Thanks to Ranimal and J for the hd camera work. This boulder is ideal because you can pull a car right up to it, making the approach all of 2 feet.