Sunday, March 31, 2013


Went to Bishop to boulder at the Buttermilks and sport climb at Owens River Gorge.  Some long-standing bouldering projects finally went down while others continued to thwart my efforts.

Here's a shot by Colby of me sending Flyboy sit V8... it should've been an onsight, but i got it 2nd try.  My onsight attempt got me to the lip, where i blew off and missed all the pads.  The buttermilks gods were kind to me and didn't snap my ankle or right arm, both of which hit the ground.  The right arm tricep was pretty wrecked for the rest of the week.

We stayed at "The Pit" at the Pleasant Valley Campground.  The manager was pretty uptight, and we ended up on his shitlist when people in our didn't pay within 30 minutes of arrival.  For the entire week, he would enter our campsite at 6am and curse loudly muttering things like, "It's two goddamn dollars.  Two dollars!"  "Pay to stay... Goddammit!!"  Of course, we had paid, but his tracking system seemed flawed.  That dude, combined with the wind, made the pit a rather unpleasant experience.  Here's Bill fantasizing about something, not sure what.

It was nice when Pilar and John showed up with the dogs, Othello and Lolita.  They of course did their thing and went on a scavenging rampage.
Othello above.

Lolita.  Below, one of the Beastie Boys gave us a visit...

Colby snapping shots of 7 Spanish Angels...  It took me several goes to send this one.  Even when i stuck the dyno i sort of didn't believe it.

After 7 Spanish, we went to Jedi Mind Tricks, where we all got sun burned and dehydrated.  
Bill attempting Lidija's Mouth v3.

Here's the send list:
Sheepherder v2
East Side Story v3 (highball)
Fly Boy v6
Fly Boy sit v8
Bring the Ruckus/Seven Spanish Angels v6
Jedi Mind Tricks v4 (highball)
Suspended in Silence v5 (highball)
Essential Peabody v0
North Face Direct v2 (highball)
The Knobs v5
Change of Heart v6

Wednesday, March 6, 2013

LRC and HP40

This is some super tardy content from November of last year when i took a few days to go bouldering in Little Rock City and HP40. The entry sticker for LRC...Thanksgiving Weekend conditions were almost perfect.  A little cold in the mornings and warm in the sun.  Some of the crimpy problems in LRC did get greasy though. 

Takako on Pocket Pool v4.

My lunch. Jam with Justin's chocolate hazelnut butter. Probably better than creatine monohydrate.

Yusuke doing super mario v8 from the sit start.

Me attempting Mortal Kombat at HP40. Super classic v4. like everything else at hp, it was pretty challenging for the grade.

Some food in Gadsden Alabama. Note that golden deep fried hue. It cloaks 95% of the food served in that region of the country.

Me on Bumboy v3. One of the hardest V3s i've ever tried.

Much thanks to Yusuke and Takako for allowing me to tag along and crash in their hotel. Also for taking some fabulous photos.

Day 1 (Thu)  NOv 15
V6 The Wave - Flash
V5 Genghis Khan - 3 tries
V4 - Mystery Groove? don't remember name but the one with tree and cool fin feature.
V3 Two Can Sam horiz jug crack to tiny fist crack
V6 Kingpin? hop slab
V6 Super Mario extension

Day 2 (Fri) nov 16
V3 - Sternum mantle
V5 - Sternum
V1 - area outside dragon area
V4 - Tri Star
V5 - Crack of Doom

Day 3 (Sat)  Nov 17
V1 - Dragon Tail - flash
V4 - Dragon Lady - flash
V7 Midway - flash
V7 A Face in the crowd - flash
V4 Pocket pulling - flash
V5 Diesel Power - rp also called "Whaley of the bell" and sometimes v6
V2 Pancake Mantle - flash

Day 4 (Sun)  Nov 18
dyno v5
random v3

Day 5 (Mon) HP40  Nov 19
bumboy v3
centerpede v4

Day 6 (Tues) HP 40  Nov 20
Popeye v5
Hammerhead v5

Wed Nov 21
Yusuke / Takako drive me from Gadsden to Oxford.  I rent passat with no cruise control drive from oxford to birmingham and then north to nashville.  Big mistake.. should have flown out of Atlanta, where i arrived.

Monday, March 4, 2013

Klondike Bar.

What would a climber do for a klondike bar?  Campus 11d naked? Sure!
Cannabis Crag behind Kraft Mountain.  The route is Synapse Collapse.  Glad I was not the belayer.  
What will a climber do for a klondike bar? Campus 11d naked. from Hotel Sierra on Vimeo.