Wednesday, April 8, 2015

Americana Exotica.

Picture sequence is from Dec 2014, I think.  You can click to enlarge.  I tried this on and off for about 5 years maybe, dedicating a bunch of days in 2013 and it finally went down winter 2014.  

I utilized the different "cheater" beta for the undercling move.  The conventional approach was to cross left hand and use it as an undercling sidepull, but I gastoned with my right hand instead which looks and feels like a shoulder wrecker.  In fact it is shoulder wrecker - so about 5 tries was all i would get before tweaking my shoulder for a week or so.  But it allows you to skip some really hard slopey pinches, which felt impossible for me and probably go at v9/10.  This "cheater" way is probably v8/9, but it's subjective and nigh impossible to grade a one move problem (sorry for the cliche!).  Only saying this b/c I can see the 8/9 grade if I get on my tippy toes and peek over the fence.  But 9/10 is definitely beyond anything i can muster.  As for spotting, thanks to friends Chufftimus Prime and Shia LeChuff.  Sir Chuff-a-lot was taking a nap i think.  

The rock quality is high, and it was condition dependent for me.  It's a relatively unique problem with perfect one-pad underclings that allowed for ample thumb trickery for some pinch-like attacks.  Movement quality is also high and safety is not an issue as the landing over the crux is relatively flat.  

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