Monday, August 11, 2014


IMG 2264 from Mike on Vimeo.

Borderline 5.13a 
Sent!  My 3rd 13a.  Never thought I'd get to this grade.  However, an insidious pattern has emerged--  
I need at least one no-hands rest to send at this difficulty: 

Straight Outta Compton -- 12d… no-hands kneebar halfway up the route.   
Energizer 5.13a -- Three to four no-hands rests in overhanging cave. 
Corrosion 5.13a -- One double kneebar no-hands rest before the roof crux.   
Borderline 5.13a -- One no-hands kneebar rest at the sloper crux about 1/3 of the way up the route.   

According to this pattern, Warlords 13a and Equalizer 13a will be much more difficult for me because neither of them contain a no hands rest.   

Route 4x4s in the gym seem to be helpful.  Last year, route 4x4 training preceded sends of Urban Decay 12c and Straight Outta Compton.   As soon as I restarted route 4x4s this year, Borderline went down. 

Technological advantages: 
  1. 9.4 ion sterling rope 
  2. Arcteryx harness 
  3. Sportiva futuras 
  4. Hot pink chalkbag from australia.   
  5. 3 kinds of chalk:  Liquid chalk + Bison chalk + Black Diamond White Gold. 
  6. 5.10 kneepad with sticky rubber. 
  7. Gu gel with 40 mg caffeine. 
  8. Coconut water. 
  9. Alkaline water. 
  10. Squid for stick clipping first draw.

Thanks to:
  1. DG for belay
  2. KO for low beta and no hands kneebar suggestion
  3. MB for permadraws and HD video.

1 comment:

Marlene Broccolene said...

Great Job! Nice chalk bag :)!