East Mountain...Warmup Roof V4 flash.
Below is me trying Warmup Roof V5 variation. No dice as my mind-body was unable to corkscrew properly while coordinating with the core.
Problem of the day for me was Try Harder because it contained all the necessary ingredients for my type of climbing: Big moves between big holds, no crimps, and demanding some power. Sort of like the Pearl at Red Rocks. I think Try Harder is old school also, as our guide Chris said it was put up back in the day by some hard man like John Sherman or something like that. Try Harder and Hobbit in a Blender were the only problems on the whole trip to make me scream my ass off. The primal yell is very satisfying to release. However, not any scream will do... it must be pulled out of you by a very demanding move (mentally or physically, preferably both simultaneously.) In other words you can't intend or plan such a spontaneous act. The problem has to pull it out of you. All you can do is get on the boulder and if it happens it happens. Below is me on Try Harder.
I'd like to extend many thanks to Masa for filming my attempts with his tripod; I wasn't in a filming mood at the time but now I'm very thankful he did it. Also many thanks to Takako, a budding climbing photographer, who took the sequence shots above with Yusuke's DLSR.Warmup Roof V1 - flash
Warmup Roof V2 - flash
Warmup Roof V4 - flash
Dragonfly V5 - flash
left of hobbit "Ostracizer?" V2 - onsight
Hobbit in a Blender V5 - 2nd or third try
Try Harder V4 - redpoint
23 point day - whoa! I think this is a record for me, and my body definitely let me know it was gonna cost me dearly.
Cattleman's Steakhouse was the reward. I think this may have been the best steak I ever had. I am not a steak connosiuer like Masa though (Masa enjoys steaks in the $100+ range).
4 comments:
Nice description on the "primal yell". I personally find myself screaming curses like a drunk pirate when I'm on some crazy, awkward, hard, scary trad route.
Thanks for choosing the shots I took! This layout is really cool;)
Hopefully next time I'll be more better at taking pictures...and climbing of course!
BTW, I also loved the steak at Cattleman's!! It was indeed true what the Custom Officer at IHA told me, "No.1 steak in the US"!
Thanks for your comments as well bud. But I'm jealous that you got to hit up Hueco and take such prime shots'n'videos.
I'm dealing with a 31 deg. snow storm and my only prospects is a dry 44 degree half-sunday. Make it up our way when the deserts get too hot...
Chilly B. I hope that you are sponsored by Gatorade. I like how you arranged your photos in a sequence, bet that Climbing/Urban magazine is going to be stealing your idea real soon.
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