Just so the 4 people who read this blog (one of which is me) is clear... Sharkwalk 5.13a (7c+) really is quite overhanging. My previous post made it look like a slab. It's slopey and powerful with a crux at the top. A beautiful route. Below is Mr. Awesome setting for the dyno at the top.
Interestingly enough, Mr. Awesome attacked it the way he trains on the 45 degree wall at the gym- square and powerful with toes pointed at the wall in an almost accusatory fashion. Unlike Mr. Awesome's Ben Moon-informed training style, I resorted to the sneaky sideways approach...
This inspiring route will require some power endurance training on slopey holds, especially since the hardest thing either of us has sent clean is a 5.12. But since Americans are lazy and prefer to get by on talent or any other avenue that avoids discipline, we may instead resort to the tried and true method of ales and onanism or "IRHM" prior to the climb. See the Cody Roth
video at momentum climbing (issue#24) for a demonstration of IRHM technique. With any luck a future post will feature Mr. Awesome defeating Sharkwalk with a piledriver, as our climbing escapades evolve into professional wrestling, at least in writing.
Interestingly enough, Mr. Awesome attacked it the way he trains on the 45 degree wall at the gym- square and powerful with toes pointed at the wall in an almost accusatory fashion. Unlike Mr. Awesome's Ben Moon-informed training style, I resorted to the sneaky sideways approach...
This inspiring route will require some power endurance training on slopey holds, especially since the hardest thing either of us has sent clean is a 5.12. But since Americans are lazy and prefer to get by on talent or any other avenue that avoids discipline, we may instead resort to the tried and true method of ales and onanism or "IRHM" prior to the climb. See the Cody Roth video at momentum climbing (issue#24) for a demonstration of IRHM technique. With any luck a future post will feature Mr. Awesome defeating Sharkwalk with a piledriver, as our climbing escapades evolve into professional wrestling, at least in writing.
1 comment:
I've always subscribed and written about variations on the concept of IRHW......however I also don't clean 5.14's like Cody Roth does.
Plus it helps keep me modest enough to never turn into a douche-sender that posts every flashed v2+ on 8a.nu
Keep fighting the good fight
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